A veritable institution in the Carpentras Truffle market is held every Friday morning from mid-November until the end of March, in the main courtyard of the Hotel Dieu of Carpentras, Aristide Briand.
It is an intimate market, silent and authentic aura of indefinable atmosphere surrounding this product full of mystery ...
In small bags, truffles are slow, like true divas, with their beautiful black dress "tuber melanosporum": they provide their fragrance throughout the market. The best should have a firm, rounded shape, a grain on the envelope must be well crafted, but not too big. Small groups of men and women, crowded against each other, exchange discrete sentences: a "Roman" and "filoche" ready to use, the transactions are done by stealth ... But everything is clear, precise and just ... large bags inflate truffles, the market ends.
The Carpentras market is the reference to other markets in the region: caveurs (pickers) of eight departments meet there and present their "rabasses" (truffles) to brokers, dealers and curators from all over France.
8:30 in the morning. Carpentras wakes up under a cloudy sky, captured by a biting cold. Just outside the city center, the terrace of a cafe comes alive kick steaming espresso: a berets group seems discuss extensively about mysterious wallets. As we approach the terrace, the air begins to embalm. A powerful and persistent odor perfumes the air and set in motion our taste buds. There is no doubt, it is indeed the nose.
This is definitely where the market at the "black diamond" is held every Friday morning winter months on the city of Carpentras. The meeting showcases the collectors of the region with traders but also individuals come to learn, tourists as well as the older generation carpentoise, supervisors and columnists of the event.
One feels, one brush, or even one canife the fungus to validate its quality: thirty known species of truffles, tuber melanosporum with the slightly lumpy contours and black flesh discreetly veined white is one that is trading on the markets.
The truffle market is the only one of Provence that is of unparalleled discretion. All communication is exchanged whispers! Fortunately, there are "old" who palabrent to make the moment a little disconcerting for the tourist.
8:45, the master of ceremonies, dressed in black, to the hat, invests the middle of the square to give the whistle opening negotiations. "It's called the beautiful merle here!". It will take ten minutes, no more, so that the whole is concluded. The market also quietly empty at the beginning, merchants leave with their prized possession. This is to understand nothing! Patience ... the ritual is not done!